Striekacia pištoľ Fengda BD-138

Detailed product description

Simple "fixer" type airbrush with a plastic body, single-action trigger, nozzle with external mixing and vacuum filling. Suitable for spraying areas, in model making (painting model bodies), in artistic work (American retouching - painting pictures), suitable for temporary tattoos (body painting) and for food work (painting cakes and pies with food colors) where it is necessary to spray a medium-sized solid surface or a smaller object.

Package contents:

1x Airbrush
2x paint bottle
1x pressure bottle adapter
1x hose
1x M5 / 1/4" adapter
1x pipette

Airbrush is the best way to apply paint. This word describes the technique in which compressed air is used to apply paint. When working with an airbrush, it is important to know which type of airbrush is suitable for a specific job, and it is also necessary to have knowledge of the technique and basic skills. Therefore, it is essential to familiarize yourself with the design of the airbrush and spraying technology. The airbrush is a tool with a suction system, i.e. air flows through a horizontal tube and creates a suction effect, which pulls the liquid through a vertical tube out of the tank. All airbrushes are based on this principle. Spraying paint is also a very economical method of application. Compared to painting with a brush, you save 30 - 50% of paint.

Types of airbrushes:
-with external mixing: Air flowing through the air channel mixes with the paint at the exit of the nozzle. These are usually very simple airbrushes, with a bottle. They are used for spraying larger areas, wider lines and freer transitions between colors. They are most often used for spraying model bodies or single-color areas.
-with internal mixing: Air flowing through the air channel mixes with the paint inside the spray head. It is used for spraying smaller areas, thin lines and sharper transitions between colors.
-with gravity filling: The container/funnel is above the gun body and the paint is supplied to the nozzle by its own weight (gravity).
-with vacuum filling: The container/bottle is under the gun body and the paint is sucked in using the vacuum created by the air flow through the gun.
-with single-action trigger: The single-action trigger only controls the air supply. It is typical for the simplest airbrushes. The amount of paint is not regulated at all, or is regulated using a separate regulating nut on the nozzle, or by pulling out the needle. It is a basic beginner type, which is often found in various "beginner's kits".
-with simple double-action trigger: The double-action trigger controls both the air supply (pressing the trigger releases the air supply) and the amount of paint. By moving the trigger back and forth, the nozzle opens and closes with the movement of the needle, and thus the amount of paint is regulated. It is the most common advanced type of gun used for most modeling and graphic work.
-with independent double-action trigger: The independent double-action trigger smoothly controls the amount of air (trigger movement up-down) and the amount of paint (trigger movement back-forward). It is the highest type of gun used for the most demanding graphic work.
-with a classic screw-on nozzle.
-with a self-centering nozzle of the VEGA system, which is simply inserted into its bed.

Paint dilution: Basically any paint suitable for the given nozzle opening size (pigment fineness) and the corresponding air pressure can be used in an airbrush. Practically all types of modeling paints can be sprayed, as well as artist paints, inks, acrylic, synthetic and acetone paints. Special food and tattoo paints are produced. Dilution usually has to be adjusted according to the type of paint and the type of spraying (large area, thin line, ...). Most paint manufacturers also indicate the correct dilution ratio in the instructions for use. There are many manufacturers who produce paints already diluted for spraying (for example Vallejo Air). In general, however, it is necessary to dilute paints for spraying to a "watery" consistency. The paint must be very thin, only then can it be sprayed perfectly and create a smooth surface. If the paint is too thick, the result will be a "semolina" surface. Thick paint is difficult to spray, or cannot be sprayed at all. Model paints are commonly diluted for spraying up to a ratio of 3 parts thinner to 2 parts paint, but the paint can be diluted even more. It is always necessary to test the dilution and spraying before starting work. The dilution ratio also affects the adhesion of the paint and its covering ability. Different brands and types of paint require different dilution ratios. When working with synthetic and acetone paints, ensure good ventilation of the room. For accurate dosage when thinning, it is best to use a pipette.

Recommendation: Tamiya acrylic paints are particularly good for spraying on plastic surfaces. Unlike water-based acrylic paints, Tamiya paints generally do not require a base coat. We recommend diluting these paints 3 parts paint with 2 parts Tamiya thinner. However, Vallejo Air acrylic paints, newly developed specifically for spraying and supplied already diluted, are also excellent for spraying. If necessary, they are diluted with water only. When spraying water-based acrylic paints on plastic, it is necessary to first spray the surface with a base coat, otherwise maps will form and the paint will not adhere well the first time!

Compressed air source: There is a rule for working with an airbrush that you cannot cheat. Even with the best airbrush, you will not achieve a good result without a high-quality compressor or a stable air source. In an emergency, a can of compressed gas (spray) can be used to power the spray gun. But a compressed gas tank is only suitable for a gun of the simplest design, operating at low pressure and only for infrequent work, because it does not allow for a stably set pressure. If you use a higher-type airbrush, you definitely need a quality specialized compressor. The working pressure of airbrush generally ranges between 0.8 - 2.7 bar, depending on the type of airbrush and the type of work. Therefore, it is necessary for the compressor to have smooth pressure regulation. A quality compressor must also have a separation filter to capture small impurities from the air and especially water vapor. Some airbrush compressors also have a small pressure tank (air tank), which serves to ensure the most even air pressure at the compressor outlet. A common feature of a quality compressor is a pressure sensor that switches the compressor to standby mode as soon as you stop drawing compressed air into the gun (release the trigger). You cannot replace a specialized airbrush compressor with a cheap tire inflator or a large garage compressor for powering pneumatic tools.

Airbrush operation
We recommend that you practice spraying on a piece of paper or a practice object.
-Make sure that the hose connecting the compressor and the airbrush is well sealed.
-Fill the container or funnel with paint.
-At the beginning of spraying, to get the desired contact with the surface, first set the gun to a fine stream of paint for thin lines and start spraying from a distance of about 15 cm from the surface. Hold the gun at a right angle to the surface. While spraying, make a smooth movement of your hand from side to side, never stand with the gun in one place. Guide the airbrush with a calm hand evenly along the surface to be sprayed, covering a continuous strip. If you get closer to the surface, the painted area will be smaller and the paint more concentrated. If you move the gun away, the painted area will be larger and the paint less concentrated. After gaining some practice, if you control the gun well, you can try spraying fine lines. Hold the gun just above the surface and carefully control the amount of paint. In this spraying mode, the tip of the needle protrudes from the spray head. Therefore, be very careful not to catch it on the surface being sprayed. The tip of the needle is sensitive and could bend.

When learning to spray properly, you may encounter the following problems:
-Puddles form on the surface and the paint spreads in all directions: There can be two reasons. Either you are spraying paint diluted with water onto a smooth, unprepared surface (plastic, glass, metal,...), or you have diluted the paint too much. In the first case, it is necessary to first spray the surface of the model or object with the base paint. In the second case, it is enough to slightly thicken the paint.
-Crumbs form on the surface: Paint is too thick.
-Splatters form on the surface: There can be two reasons in principle. Either you have deposits on the tip of the needle or nozzle, or your air pressure is too low.
-The gun spits: This is a common occurrence at the beginning of spraying when you pull the trigger. Therefore, it is recommended to start spraying away from the work surface.
-Small splashes around the spray line: You are spraying from too close a distance, or your air pressure is too high.
-The gun "dusts", the paint dries before it hits the surface: You have too thick paint and high air pressure. Try thinning the paint more and reducing the pressure. It could also be the type of paint, in which case it is usually necessary to use an Airbrush Retarder (usually offered by the paint manufacturer).
-The gun with a lower cup has stopped spraying: Check the vent hole in the bottle cap. If it is clogged with paint, a vacuum has formed in the bottle and stopped the flow of paint.
-The gun does not spray as well as before after replacing the nozzle or needle: Check that you have replaced the nozzle or needle with the same size as the original one. Remember that the nozzle, needle and diffuser are tuned to each other, so if you replace the 0.3mm nozzle with a 0.5mm nozzle, but leave the needle or diffuser unchanged, the gun will not spray properly. -Bubbles form in the container, or the paint flow cannot be stopped, pulsing, sputtering and other inconveniences: Usually all this is related to a clogged nozzle (paint residue deposited on the tip of the needle and inside the nozzle). Or you have an incorrectly assembled gun, loose threads, missing seals. Try disassembling the gun, cleaning it thoroughly and checking it.

Note: It is normal for dried paint residue to build up on the tip of the needle, on the nozzle and on the outer surface of the diffuser (spray head). If dried paint accumulates, this can cause poor spray quality or even the gun to malfunction. Therefore, check the tip of the needle and clean it regularly during work. Usually, it is enough to unscrew the diffuser and remove paint residue from the tip of the needle with two fingers. Alternatively, use an ear cleaner soaked in thinner to clean dirty parts.

Cleaning and maintenance: If you want your airbrush to work well for a long time, you must always clean it thoroughly, but also very carefully. The two most important principles for a well-functioning airbrush are cleaning and general care.

When working with multiple shades of paint, it is not always necessary to completely clean the gun before each color change. It is usually sufficient to rinse it with a small amount of thinner (or water, if it is water-thinned paint) and continue working immediately. Thorough cleaning of the spray gun is only necessary after the work is completely finished.

Cleaning the gun has its own sequence, which we always recommend following.
-First, rough cleaning. Fill the gun funnel (or the lower container) with a special spray gun cleaner or thinner. Water is not effective in this case, even if you have worked with water-thinned paints. A special cleaner - Airbrush Cleaner (for example Tamiya) unlike regular thinner dissolves dried paint residues inside the gun. Use a brush to clean the funnel and all surfaces inside the gun that you can reach. Then pour out the cleaner along with the paint residues.
-Then final cleaning. Re-fill the funnel/bottle with Airbrush Cleaner and spray the cleaner into the collection container (so that you can reuse it). You can also carefully (be careful of the needle tip) block the spray head with your finger for a while so that bubbles begin to form in the gun funnel/container. This will help clean the channels in the gun.
-Repeat the procedure if the gun is very dirty until clean thinner comes out.
-Unscrew the back of the gun body, unscrew and remove the needle lock nut. Pull the needle out very carefully. If there is paint residue on it and the needle does not come out easily, carefully grip it with pliers and slowly pull it out with a twisting motion. Clean the needle of paint residue, very carefully, with a soft cloth. Be very careful with the needle tip so that it does not bend. If you manage to bend the needle tip, it can sometimes be saved by pressing the needle tip on a hard flat surface (glass) and rolling it a few times with the tip of your finger.
-After removing the needle, unscrew the outer parts of the spray head and clean them of paint residue on the inner surfaces.
-Cleaning the nozzle is as sensitive an operation as cleaning the needle. There are two types of nozzles. The classic screw-in or self-centering VEGA system, which is only inserted in its seat.
We usually clean the screw-in nozzle without removing it from the gun. In a new gun, the nozzle is sometimes sealed on the thread with liquid wax from the factory and unscrewing it will both break the seal and risk damaging the nozzle or breaking the thread. Sometimes it is advisable to carefully heat the gun body to loosen the wax. If you want to replace the nozzle with another one, you should be extremely careful when unscrewing the nozzle from the gun. In newer types of guns, the nozzle is sealed only with a rubber seal, which makes it easier to unscrew.
You can simply release the VEGA nozzle from the seat by carefully pressing your finger on the side of the nozzle. Then you just need to carefully clean it from paint residues. We will also clean the nozzle seat.
Note: Each nozzle is subject to wear and tear depending on the type of paint used. Paint is an abrasive and the nozzle will wear out sooner or later with use.
-Cleaning the trigger mechanism and the entire rear part of the gun is necessary especially when it is heavily soiled. During normal operation, it is enough to completely disassemble the gun only once in a while, when you feel that the overall operation of the gun is impaired.
-When assembling the spray gun, proceed in the reverse order. First, assemble the spray head (tighten the threads with your fingers carefully so as not to tear them!), then continue assembling the trigger and needle seat. Then insert the needle and gently push it in with your finger until it stops. As soon as you feel resistance, stop pressing on the needle and tighten the locking nut. Be very careful when pushing in the needle so as not to tear the nozzle!
-Rubber seals may change size when exposed to cleaner or thinner. However, after cleaning, they will return to their original shape within about 15 minutes. The gun is then ready for use again.
-If you are not going to use the gun for a long time, you can preserve it with a light oil to prevent the parts of the gun from sticking together. However, before using it again, remember to spray it with cleaner to remove the oil from the areas where the paint goes.